Saturday, October 29, 2016

Chaos in abundance

“Chaos is found in greatest abundance wherever order is being sought. It always defeats order, because it is better organized.”

Pratchett, Terry. 1994. Interesting Times. London: Victor Gollancz.

It happened again.

On September 23, 2016 I posted the following:
When I went to upload my latest blog post -- which featured a table, numerous quotations, witty commentary, piercing insights, and a bibliography -- it vanished.
All of it. Completely. Gone.
The post which should have gone up October 19th suffered a similar fate. Similar, but not identical.

Fortunately I've become cynical and wary and apt to bite strangers. I saved (as HTML) most -- but sadly, not all -- of the post. So when the online version decided to join the choir celestial, I had a partial backup.

Add in work and having been fighting against a stubborn three week cold (I can cough for you, if you like -- really, it's no trouble), and this explains my tardiness.

I'll post the completed piece a little later this week. Until then, I'll be trying to maintain as much of a bulwark against catastrophe as I can manage.

Wednesday, October 12, 2016

I don't belong here

I'm a creep, I'm a weirdo
What the hell am I doing here?
I don't belong here.

Radiohead. 1993. "Creep," from the album Pablo Honey.  Written by Mike Hazlewood, Albert Hammond, Colin Greenwood, Jonathan Greenwood, Edward O'brien, Philip Selway, and Thomas Yorke.

In 1866 Ernst Haeckel (1834-1919) coined the word "ecology"1:
"By ecology we mean the body of knowledge concerning the economy of nature—the investigation of the total relations of the animal both to its inorganic and to its organic environment; including above all, its friendly and inimical relations with those animals and plants with which it comes directly or indirectly into contact—in a word ecology is the study of all those complex interrelations referred to by Darwin as the conditions of the struggle for existence."
(Allee et al., 1949, p. vi; see also Stauffer 1957, pp. 140-1412)
Ecology is "the scientific study of how living things interact with each other and their natural environment" (Eco-Globe 2016). There are lots of different kinds of ecology -- population ecology, community ecology, ecosystem ecology, landscape ecology, urban ecology, behavioral ecology, etc.

One thing that becomes apparent when you look at ecology: Except perhaps for the evolutionary ecologists, there's a strong (and somewhat cryptic) tendency to focus on now. How are animals and plants relating now. How are ecosystems being affected by people or changes in the environment now.

Now is not a very long stretch of time. Now is the endpoint, and the journey to now may not have been easy.

In 1982 Daniel Janzen and Paul Martin published a groundbreaking paper: "Neotropical Anachronisms: The Fruits the Gomphotheres Ate" (Janzen and Martin 1982). To summarize: The fruits of numerous tropical and subtropical plants make no real ecological sense -- unless we remember that until about 13,000 years ago there were huge herbivorous animals that roamed the Americas. When the giant ground sloths, mammoths, mastodons, gomphotheres (an elephant relative), glyptodonts, Mixotodon species, etc. disappeared, all of the plants that had co-evolved with them (by protecting their seeds and leaves from being eaten, or by using these animals to spread their seeds), were suddenly without their partners.

Giant ground sloth (Nothrotheriops shastensis [Shasta ground sloth]).

Drawing of a gomphothere.
Glyptodonts

Mixotodon species.

When we look at New World ecosystems, we are seeing a diminished and impoverished community, a community haunted by specters.

There are many examples: Avocado (Persea spp.), Papaya (Carya spp.), Honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos), Mesquite (Prosopis spp.), Osage orange (Maclura pomifera), Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) and American Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) (see Barlow 2000). All of these have seeds that are sometimes spread by small mammals (squirrels, gophers, etc.) or sometimes by larger browsers (deer, pronghorn, etc.), or occasionally by floods and storms. But mostly the fruit (or seedpod) just falls on the ground and rots. The animals that are supposed to eat them and spread their seeds just aren't there anymore. There are also plants that depend on animals to spread their seeds by hitching a ride, like devil's claw (Ibicella lutea) and cockleburs (Xanthium spp.). They too have been waiting for partners who departed long ago.

This idea of ecological anachronisms in the landscape has become important in understanding how plant and animal communities function, and in understanding how introduced species like horses and cows may actually help restore ecosystems -- new "megafauna" to replace the animals that the plants have missed all these centuries.

It got me to wondering -- are there any good examples of "ghosts" here in Southern California? Are there plants or plant communities that are impoverished today because the animals they once largely depended on are now gone?

To begin to answer that question I needed to know two things: First, the kinds of animals and plants that used to be common here during the Pleistocene (which, according to current geological thinking, ended 11,700 years ago). Second, how to determine if a plant is "anachronistic."

The first question is surprisingly easy to answer: There is an excellent source for that kind of knowledge -- The La Brea Tar Pits.

The La Brea tar pits are located in Los Angeles. Natural asphalt bubbles to surface here -- and has been bubbling up for at least 38,000 years. During that time a great many animals and plants have fallen into the tar. Scientists have been excavating and studying the fossils since 1913, and the George C. Page Museum of La Brea Discoveries has been displaying (and more importantly, cataloging) what's been found since 1977.

Their online list of mammals (http://www.tarpits.org/research-collections/collections/mammal-faunal-list) includes a number of extinct potential megafauna "seed dispersal agents," including
  • Ground sloth (Megalonyx jeffersonii)
  • Ground sloth (Nothrotheriops shastensis)
  • Ground sloth (Glossotherium harlani)
  • Mammoth (Mammut americanum)
  • Mammoth (Mammuthus columbi)
  • Horse (Equus occidentalis)
  • Horse (Equus conversidens)
  • Tapir (Tapirus californicus)
  • Camel (Camelops hesternus)
  • Camel (Hemiauchenia macrocephala)
  • Bison (Euceratherium collinum)
  • Bison (Bison latifrons)
  • Bison (Bison antiquus)
Plants that needed megafauna are a little trickier, but using the online listing from the George C. Page Museum (http://www.tarpits.org/research-collections/collections/flora-list) there are at least four possibilities:
  • California black walnut (Juglans californica)
  • Spiny hackberry (Celtis ehrenbergiana)3
  • California bay laurel (Umbellularia californica)
  • Devil's claw (Proboscidea louisianica)4
The second question -- how to determine if a plant is "anachronistic" -- is less easy to answer, but there are 11 criteria spelled out by Janzen and Martin. Their list is quite long and includes many examples. At the risk of oversimplifying, here are their criteria:
  1. The fruits are big, have pulp that contain sugar or oil, and the fruits do not normally split open to release seeds.
  2. The fruits are similar to those known from Africa that are spread by large mammals.
  3. Large nuts or seeds are protected by thick, tough or hard seed coverings that let them pass intact through both the teeth and the digestive tract.
  4. If the seeds are soft or weak, they are small and embedded in a core or "nut."
  5. Different species bear ripe fruit at different seasons.
  6. Many fruits fall off the tree, giving access to small seed-dispersers.
  7. Fruits do not attract birds, bats or monkeys.
  8. Most fruit today rots on the ground.
  9. Small mammals eat the seeds, and are only sometimes dispersal agents.
  10. Introduced large animals (cows, horses, pigs) like the fruit and disperse the seeds.
  11. The natural habitats of these plants are on the edges of grasslands or forests, in areas that are attractive to large mammals. (Janzen and Martin 1982, pp. 22-23)
Comparing the mammal and flora list, it seems to me that there are at least a few Southern California species that might "miss the mammoths." Devil's claw (Proboscidea louisianica) has been shown, fairly persuasively, to be an "evolutionary anachronism": without large animals (horses, bison, etc.) to disperse its seeds, it is confined to limited areas (see Barlow 2000).

Devil's claw (Proboscidea louisianica), dry fruit

California black walnut (Juglans californica) has been described as "difficult":
"Nothing I have ever done, not winemaking, gardening, big-game hunting, processing acorns or curing olives is as labor-intensive as harvesting, hulling and shelling black walnuts" (Shaw 2010)
It's been observed that there are usually enormous piles of black walnuts to be found at the base of most trees. It is at least possible that California black walnut used to be dispersed by megafauna.

The Rancho Camulos black walnut (Juglans californica), planted about 1860
Black walnuts, just before they start to rot.

Spiny hackberry (Celtis ehrenbergiana) is in a somewhat different category. Instead of seeking out megafauna to disperse its seeds, it seems to be trying very hard to protect them from mammals. It is the only hackberry in the US that grows spines -- and they are reasonably impressive:
Spiny hackberry (Celtis ehrenbergiana)

Thorns like these would not have discouraged a mammoth (nor would those rather widely spaced thorns be much of a problem for the narrow nose of a pronghorn)-- but they might have been a deterrent to the mouth of a camel or horse.

California bay laurel (Umbellularia californica) produces seeds that have been compared to miniature avocados. Since avocados are one of the prime examples of an evolutionary anachronism, it's at least reasonable to wonder about it.

Seeds of the California bay laurel (Umbellularia californica), looking very much like miniature avocados.

Though not very large, it's at least possible that California bay laurel employed megafauna as a seed dispersal mechanism (although considering the size, bears, elk, peccaries or maybe even deer could also be seed dispersers). Perhaps it's worth mentioning that the leaves of the California bay laurel are extremely pungent (one might even say overwhelming), which could also be a defense against large leaf-browsers.

Not everything is an example of evolutionary anachronism. Darren Naish has pointed out:
"...it can be all too easy to jump to conclusions about perceptions of co-evolution and we often need to consider other possibilities: plants may grow tall, may grow weird or giant fruit, or may exhibit ‘defensive’ adaptations for reasons unrelated to the presence of their predators, for example, since plants have complex evolutionary interactions all their own. Indeed, some classic alleged examples of co-evolution that supposedly involve lost partners are now thought to be erroneous" (Naish 2013)
The quite plausible theory about the extinction of the Dodo (Raphus cucullatus) on the island of Mauritius about 1690 and the decline of the tambalacoque tree (Sideroxylon grandiflorum) has turned out to be wrong (the tambalacoque is doing just fine without dodos to spread their seeds -- see Hershey 2004; Naish 2013; Young 2016). The idea that extinct raptors are responsible for coloration and behavior in New Zealand's birds is considered somewhat dubious today (see Diamond 1990; Naish 2013). To reiterate: Not everything that might be an anachronism is an anachronism.

It may be a bit melodramatic to say that we are living in a world haunted by ghosts. But it's undeniable that "ecosystems have been truncated or decapitated by the loss of larger animals" (Eisenberg 2010).  Perhaps an awareness of the things that were, of the phantoms that shaped our ecosystems, may help us understand how fragile and how precious what we have today really is. Perhaps we might even try preserve what we still have, before it too is lost.

Notes

1In addition to "ecology," Haeckel also coined the terms "anthropogeny," "phylum," "phylogeny," "stem cell," "protista," and "First World War."

2Stauffer notes that "this translation ... is a free rather than a literal rendering, [but] I consider it very faithful to Haeckel's meaning" (1957, p. 141).

3Actually, Celtis ehrenbergian is not listed, but a closely related species, C. reticulata, is. Since C. ehrenbergian is distributed from Arizona to Florida, and south to Argentina, it seems plausible to think that it might have been here in Southern California (at least in desert areas) during the last few thousand years.

4Devil's claw (Proboscidea louisianica) is not among the flora listed by the George C. Page Museum. However, it is currently found growing in Southern California and is distributed throughout the Southwest, Mexico and most of the US and Canada, so it seems reasonable to include it.

References

Allee, W.C., A.E. Emerson, O. Park, T. Park, and K.P. Schmidt. 1949. Principles of Animal Ecology. Saunders: Philadelphia. Online: https://archive.org/details/principlesofanim00alle

Barlow, Connie. 2000. The Ghosts of Evolution: Nonsensical Fruit, Missing Partners, and Other Ecological Anachronisms. Basic Books: New York.

Barlow, Connie. 2001. Anachronistic fruits and the ghosts who haunt them. Arnoldia 61(2): 14-21. Online: http://www.thegreatstory.org/anachronistic_fruits/anachronistic_fruits_for_printing.pdf

Bronaugh, Whit. 2010. The Trees That Miss The Mammoths. American Forests. Online: http://www.americanforests.org/magazine/article/trees-that-miss-the-mammoths/

Diamond, Jared. 1990. Biological effects of ghosts. Nature 345, 769-770. Online: http://www.sfu.ca/geog315-new/readings/diamond.pdf

Eco-Globe. 2012. Types of ecology. Online: http://eco-globe.com/types-of-ecology/

Ecology: Origins. Online: http://science.jrank.org/pages/9045/Ecology-Origins.html

Eisenberg, Cristina. 2010. Living in a Landscape of Fear: How Predators Impact an Ecosystem. Scientific American Blogs. Online: https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/predators-create-landscape-of-fear/

GuimarĂ£es, Paulo R., Mauro Galetti, and Pedro Jordano. 2008. Seed Dispersal Anachronisms: Rethinking the Fruits Extinct Megafauna Ate. PLOS One: http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0001745

Hershey, David R. 2004. The Widespread Misconception that the Tambalacoque or Calvaria Tree Absolutely Required the Dodo Bird for its Seeds to Germinate. Plant Science Bulletin 50(4): 105-108. Online: http://botany.org/PlantScienceBulletin/psb-2004-50-4.php

Janzen, Daniel Hunt and Paul S. Martin. 1982. Neotropical Anachronisms: The Fruits the Gomphotheres Ate. Science. Vol. 215 1 January 1982, pp. 19-27. Online: https://fission.sas.upenn.edu/caterpillar/index.php?action=retrieve&article=Janzen%2C1982anachronisms.pdf

Naish, Darren. 2013. The ‘ghosts’ of extinct birds in modern ecosystems. Scientific American Blogs. Online: https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/tetrapod-zoology/the-e28098ghostse28099-of-extinct-birds-in-modern-ecosystems/

Ornduff, Robert, Phyllis M. Faber and Todd Keeler-Wolf. 2003. Introduction to California Plant Life. California Natural History Guides number 69. University of California Press: Berkeley and Los Angeles.

Shaw, Hank. 2010. Black walnuts and holiday cheer. Honest food. Online: http://honest-food.net/2010/12/14/black-walnuts-and-holiday-cheer/

Smith, K. Annabelle. 2013. Why the Avocado Should Have Gone the Way of the Dodo. Smithsonian Magazine. Online:  http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/why-the-avocado-should-have-gone-the-way-of-the-dodo-4976527/?no-ist

Stauffer, Robert C. 1957. Haeckel, Darwin, and Ecology. The Quarterly Review of Biology. 32(2): 138-144. Online: https://www.jstor.org/stable/2816117?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents

Young, Lauren. 2016. The Scientific Squabble Over the Dodo Tree. Atlas Obscura. Online: http://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/the-scientific-squabble-over-the-dodo-tree

Thursday, October 6, 2016

Poison by degrees

"Men grow accustomed to poison by degrees."
("On s’accoutume au poison.")

Victor Hugo (translation W.M. Thomas). 1866. The Toilers of the Sea (Les Travailleurs de la mer), Book IV, Chapter 2. Online: https://www.archive.org/stream/toilersofthesea32338gut/pg32338.txt

There are several programs these days -- "Man vs. Wild," "Alone," "Dual Survival," "Naked and Afraid," to name a few -- in which ill-prepared people try to survive alone in a savage and indifferent wilderness while being filmed. Which does seem just a trifle eccentric, but that's not the point.

One of the most difficult things these folks have to deal with is getting food. Frequently they end up chowing down on things that are vile and disgusting. But I've never seen any program in which someone downed a bushel of Destroying Angel (Amanita bisporigera) mushrooms or an oleander (Nerium oleander) salad. Which is a little surprising -- watching folks vomit and writhe sounds like it might draw big ratings. Apparently these folks, though supposedly ignorant as newborn kittens, never mistake poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) for wild carrots (Daucus carota) despite the fact that even experts have been fooled.

Wild carrot (Daucus carota)

Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum)

Good for them. I for one am certainly not suspiciously wondering if these programs are less "reality" and more "staged." Nope, I just assume these folks are really, really lucky.

The natural world is full of things that people shouldn't eat. Figuring out the difference between "dinner" and "death" was presumably a long and very painful matter of trial and error. What's interesting are all the things that people can't possibly eat -- unless they're very carefully processed.

Acorns (Quercus spp.), bitter almonds (Prunis dulcis amara), bitter yams (Dioscorea bulbifera), cassava (Manihot esculenta), fiddlehead ferns (including Pteridium aquilinum, Matteuccia struthipteris, etc.), pokeweed (Phytolacca americana), and numerous Australian plants -- Moreton Bay chestnut (Castanospermum australe), bunbun (Endiandra insignis), dunu (Prunus turneriana), gulagaa (Ficus copiosa), and gamama (Cycas media) -- are among the many plants that are tasty and nutritious once you get the poison out. And of course, there are lots of things that we eat on a regular basis that, if not actually poisonous, are quite nasty unless they're properly prepared (such as ackee [Blighia sapida], eggplant [Solanum melongena], lupini beans [Lupinus albus or L. mutabilis], olives [Olea europaea], water nut hickory [Carya aquatica], and even soybeans [Glycine max]).

The question is -- how on earth did people figure out that these plants which (in some cases) are deadly could be made into food?

Take, for example, California acorns (various Quercus species, including coast live oak [Q. agrifolia], valley oak [Q. lobata], interior live oak [Q. wislizeni], and the tanbark oak [Notholithocarpus densiflorus]). A mature California oak tree can produce 1,000 pounds (450 kilograms) of acorns a year -- a significant food source (see Moskal 2013). But most acorns are much too bitter to eat (there are rare oaks that produce "sweet" acorns, but that's unusual). So to turn this tempting (but inedible) substance into food takes a few steps:
  • Acorns are collected in September and October.
  • Fallen acorns are likely to be infested or moldy, so traditionally trees are beaten with poles to knock off mature acorns.
  • Take the harvested acorns and put them in water. Discard "floaters."
  • Acorns are dried in the shell for up to a year (stirring occasionally to increase air circulation).
  • Dried acorns are cracked (using a hammerstone) to extract the nut.
  • Nuts are placed in baskets and tossed (winnowed) to separate the nuts from their skins.
  • Nuts are ground or pounded into acorn flour.
  • The acorn flour is leached in multiple changes of water to remove the bitter tannins. Leaching can be done in a sand pit, in a finely woven basket, or in cloth. The leaching process can take as a little as a few hours to as much as a week.
  • Once the flour has been leached of its tannins, the flour is ready for use.

    (adapted from Native American Netroots: http://nativeamericannetroots.net/diary/1055 
    and Moskal 2013: http://baynature.org/article/traditional-modern-methods-acorn-preparation/)

Maggie Howard, also known as Tabuce (1870-1947) seated on ground preparing acorns, surrounded by large baskets of acorns. Yosemite National Park.
Source: https://www.nps.gov/media/photo/view.htm?id=B16B2AB8-155D-4519-3E80C9CF48C04ADD
How on earth did people figure this out? Collecting, drying, extracting, grinding -- those are relatively straightforward, I suppose. But how did they make the conceptual leap to and if we just pour enough water through the stuff it'll be edible?

The process of making cassava (Manihot esculenta) edible is even more difficult -- and the results, if the processing goes wrong, far more serious.  Acorns are bitter; cassava is poisonous. As in cyanide. As in deadly.
  • Cassava roots are dug up and peeled.
  • The peeled roots are steeped in water for 3 days.
  • The soaked, peeled roots are dried in the sun (large pieces may be cut up encourage drying).
  • The dried roots are pounded to a powder and sifted to remove fibers.
  • The fine powder is stored in a bag for 2-3 days.
  • Excess water is squeezed out, and the wet flour is dried by roasting.
Cassava roots.

If every step is followed carefully you'll end up with a flour that contains "only" 1.8%-2.4% cyanide. Simpler processing methods exist, but they can leave as much as 33% cyanide in the final product -- which is definitely not healthy. In 2005, for example, 27 children in the Philippines died from eating improperly processed cassava (see Muller-Schwarze 2006 p. 321).

Techniques like this (grinding, leaching) are found everywhere -- in Africa, South America, North America, Asia, and Australia. And they appear to be ancient.

How ancient?

In 2009 Canadian archaeologist Julio Mercader announced the discovery of stone "food processing" tools in Mozambique that were over 100,000 years old and were used to grind wild sorghum (possibly an ancestor of Sorghum bicolor). I can't find any references to stone age leaching -- but interestingly malting sorghum (soaking the grains to start germination) is an important but very tricky process because of the possibility of cyanide production (Lupein 1990). So perhaps this technique goes back much further than I'd imagined.

What I'm left with is a bit of a puzzle. Is this an example of independent innovation, or diffusion? It's certainly possible that people discovered these exceedingly complex ways of turning something plentiful but inedible (or poisonous) into food independently on every continent. It's also possible that these techniques were carried "out of Africa" by our ancestors tens of thousands of years ago.

Food is not always easy. Sometimes it's tricky. Sometimes it's downright ornery. Sometimes it can kill you -- unless you're careful. We are the descendants of clever people, who found ways to survive. That's actually a hopeful thought.


References

Control of Konzo and Kits to Determine Cassava Cyanide and Urinary Thiocyanate. Online: http://biology-assets.anu.edu.au/hosted_sites/CCDN/

Deane, Green. 2011. Hickory harvest. Online: http://www.eattheweeds.com/cayra-coffee-or-hickory-java-2/

Deane, Green. 2016. Pokeweed: Prime potherb. Online: http://www.eattheweeds.com/can-be-deadly-but-oh-so-delicious-pokeweed-2/

Hiskey, Daven. 2012. Certain almonds are highly poisonous. Online: http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2012/05/certain-almonds-are-highly-poisonous/

Kallas, John. 2010. Edible Wild Plants. East Layton UT: Gibbs Smith.

Kemp, Kym. 2008. California Buckeye. Online: http://kymkemp.com/2008/11/18/california-buckeye/

Lupein, J.R. 1990. Sorghum and millets in human nutrition. UN Food and Agriculture Organization. Online: http://www.fao.org/docrep/t0818e/t0818e09.htm

Mercader, Julio. 2009. Mozambican grass seed consumption during the Middle Stone Age. Science  18 Dec 2009: Vol. 326, Issue 5960, pp. 1680-1683.

Moskal, Emily. 2013. Traditional and Modern Methods of Acorn Preparation. In BayNature: An Exploration of Nature in the San Francisco Bay Area. Online: http://baynature.org/article/traditional-modern-methods-acorn-preparation/

Muller-Schwarze, Dietland. 2006. Chemical Ecology of Vertebrates. Cambridge University Press, p. 321.

Natural Toxins in Fresh Fruits and Vegetables. 2015. Canadian Food Inspection Agency. Online: http://www.inspection.gc.ca/food/information-for-consumers/fact-sheets-and-infographics/specific-products-and-risks/fruits-and-vegetables/natural-toxins/eng/1332276569292/1332276685336

Ngadjonji Elders. 2004. Ngadjonji History of the Rainforest People.  Food Processing: Making Poisonous Foods Safe to Eat. Online: http://earthsci.org/aboriginal/Ngadjonji%20History/food/weapons/Food%20Processing.htm

Perkins, Sharon. What happens if you eat raw soybeans? Online: http://healthyeating.sfgate.com/happens-eat-raw-soybeans-11856.html

Saveur. January 22, 2007. Removing the bitterness from eggplant. Online: http://www.saveur.com/article/Techniques/Removing-the-Bitterness-from-Eggplant

Smart Kitchen. 2016. Bitter almonds. Online: https://www.smartkitchen.com/resources/bitter-almonds

University of Calgary. "Stone age pantry: Archaeologist unearths earliest evidence of modern humans using wild grains and tubers for food." ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 18 December 2009. Online: www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/12/091217141312.htm

Webster, Judy, Wendy Beck and Bela Ternai. 1984. Toxicity and bitterness in Australian Dioscorea bulbifera L. and Dioscorea hispida Dennst. from Thailand.  Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 32(5). Online: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/231548413_Toxicity_and_bitterness_in_Australian_Dioscorea_bulbifera_L_and_Dioscorea_hispida_Dennst_from_Thailand

Wikihow. How to use acorns for food. Online: http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Acorns-for-Food

York, George and Reese Vaughn (revised by Sylvia Yada and Linda Harris). 2007. Olives: Safe methods for home pickling. Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of California Davis, Publication 8267. Online: http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8267.pdf